From: Brutus of Wyde 
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Technique question: How to overcome lack of reach?
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 15:27:40 GMT

Meeowser:

Although I have a positive ape index, and am
considerably taller than some, I am also shorter
than many taller folks.

Here's a few short-person techniques I have compiled
over the years:

Toe on point like a ballet dancer.

Stand on one foot with the other foot.

Stand on partner's hand

For sideways reaches, heel orientation and
location of the foot on the furthest
edge of the hold can gain a few inches

Mantle!

Push that mantle down until you can stand
on that hold!

Stem things that others just reach past.

look for ways you can use blank walls
(like stemming)

stand in a sling

yard on gear

stick-clip

shoulder-stand

tension

lasso a feature then batman

chimney the adjacent crack

high-step, flag, smear, scum

dyno

(in the gym) use off-route holds or draws

undercling

Offwidths!

flexibility

abs

full-body bridges

pay no attention to ratings

leave ego at the bottom of the climb

and, as a last resort,

fall off


Hope this helps!

Brutus


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